The Best Places to Eat and Drink in Oaxaca City, Mexico
One of the most important (in my opinion) things to know when traveling to a new place.
Where are we eating!?!
If you are on your way to Oaxaca City, Mexico, then I've got you covered. One of my favorite parts of my trip to Oaxaca was learning about the food culture here as it is more specific and traditional than somewhere that is bubbling with gastronomic creations like Mexico City.
In this post, I'll list all the best places that I enjoyed eating, drinking, and getting coffee at (the important stuff) while on my first visit to Oaxaca City, Mexico.
Understanding the food culture in the state of Oaxaca
Oaxaca is the culinary heart of Mexico, known for its deep-rooted food traditions that highlight fresh, local ingredients and ancient cooking techniques. The state's diverse geography, from mountains to coastal regions, influences its rich variety of flavors and dishes. From smoky, complex moles to tlayudas and memelas cooked on an open flame, Oaxacan cuisine is a reflection of its indigenous heritage and agricultural bounty. Visiting Oaxaca means immersing yourself in a world of food that tells a story—whether it's a family recipe passed down through generations or a street vendor crafting the perfect bite with heirloom corn tortillas. Be sure to explore local markets, try the different types of mole, and enjoy the communal experience of a long, leisurely meal at one of the city's best restaurants.
Oaxaca is known for its rich cultural heritage, vibrant indigenous traditions, and incredible cuisine. The area is famous for its seven types of mole, handmade corn tortillas, and traditional Oaxacan dishes like tlayudas, memelas, and caldo de piedra. It’s also home to some of the best mezcal in Mexico, with many small-batch producers in the surrounding valleys. Beyond food, Oaxaca is renowned for its colorful markets, artisanal crafts, and historical sites, including Monte Albán and the striking Templo de Santo Domingo. The city and its surrounding towns offer an immersive experience in both culinary and cultural traditions that have been preserved for centuries.
Essential Oaxacan Dishes to Try
Mole: Oaxaca is famous for its seven types of mole, including mole negro, mole coloradito, and mole amarillo. Each has a unique blend of spices, chiles, and local ingredients. Try a tasting menu at places like Las Quince Letras or Casa Oaxaca to sample different moles.
Tlayudas: Often called Oaxacan pizza, this crispy tortilla is topped with refried beans, cheese, avocado, and meat.
Memelas: Thick corn tortillas topped with mole, refried beans, queso fresco, and sometimes pork belly.
Caldo de Piedra: A pre-Hispanic dish made by placing hot stones in a bowl to cook seafood in a broth.
Tamales Oaxaqueños: Wrapped in banana leaves and filled with mole or other savory ingredients.
Best Street Food Spots
Memelas Doña Vale (Located in Central de Abastos Market): A local favorite known for crispy tortillas topped with fresh ingredients.
Tacos del Carmen (Near Carmen Alto Church): Famous for their chile relleno tacos.
Pasillo de Humo (20 de Noviembre Market): A popular spot to try grilled meats cooked over an open flame.
Best Sit-Down Restaurants
Levadura de Olla: Focuses on traditional Oaxacan cuisine with an emphasis on local ingredients.
Casa Taviche: Offers a three-course meal at a great price, perfect for trying authentic Mexican cuisine.
La Cocina de Humo: Run by Chef Jorge León, this restaurant is all about traditional Oaxacan flavors cooked over wood fire.
Best Bars & Mezcalerías
Sabina Sabe: Known for its craft cocktails and extensive mezcal selection.
El Destilado: Offers a tasting menu paired with unique cocktails.
Archivo Maguey: A perfect spot for mezcal tastings in a cozy atmosphere.
Practical Tips for Food Lovers
Best time to eat: Many restaurants close between lunch and dinner, so plan accordingly.
How to order like a local: Try saying “¿Qué me recomienda?” to get the chef’s top pick.
Don’t miss the markets: Visit Mercado Benito Juárez and Mercado 20 de Noviembre for fresh fruit, spices, and street stalls.
Food Day Trip Outside Oaxaca City
Tlacolula Market (Sunday Only): A traditional market just outside the city, perfect for experiencing Oaxacan food culture firsthand.
Santa María del Marquesado: A small town known for its caldo de piedra.
Let's start with the most important meal of the day
First Stop — Breakfast!
Strolling through the city center, you will discover so many wonderful cafes and breakfast joints. Though I will say they don't open at the crack of dawn, it is more of a leisurely breakfast hour for opening.
Boulenc
By far, it is a favorite and a popular spot among travelers. Boulenc will be seen on many recommendation lists, and for good reason! It has a fascinating interior, especially if you get to sit on the back terrace, paired with a solid breakfast and a great latte. What more could you ask for? Well, I'll tell you—delicious baked goods. They are famous for their breads, pastries, homemade jams, and local honey.
Try the Shakshuka!
Las Quince Letras Restaurante
Located in the city center, within walking distance from most hotels or Airbnb stays, this place is known for traditional Oaxacan dishes. You’ll find a woman hand-preparing corn tortillas and using a stone comal right in the dining area. One of the best things to try here is the mole negro, a rich and complex sauce made with over 30 ingredients, including hoja santa and chocolate.
Marito & Moglie
Great cafe, with excellent coffee, with seating in a courtyard. This would be a great place to work if you needed to.
Next Coffee Shop stop:
Muss Café
Amá Terraza
I am going to group these as they are in the same building but on different levels.
Muss Café is a walk-up coffee bar, easy to pop in from the street. Grab a nice coffee and a pastry on the go. Indeed, they do have a few tables if you prefer to sit and enjoy!
Amá Terraza, on the other hand, is a gorgeous rooftop cafe. A very peaceful hideaway coffee shop perfect for a slow morning with agua fresca or hot chocolate made with Oaxacan cacao.
Then on to LUNCH:
Mercado de 20 Novembre
Venturing to the local markets of Oaxaca is a must, but doing so around lunchtime is even better. Everything from fresh bread to tacos to caldo de piedra (a traditional stone soup) can be found here. There are plenty of food stalls, all offering something delicious for very little cost. Be sure to try memelas from Memelas Doña Vale, an iconic street vendor known for her crispy tortillas topped with fresh ingredients.
Tacos del Carmen
If you are in the mood for street food, this is the perfect spot for some of the best tacos in Oaxaca. Their tacos de lechón (roast suckling pig) are a must-try.
Sabina Sabe
Caught in afternoon rain showers, I ended up here for lunch, and good thing too! The food was perfect for a light lunch, and like many places in Oaxaca, making a cocktail is an art form. They have a dining area but an additional bar where you can taste their wide variety of cocktails.
Without a doubt, try the Steak Tacos and the Ceviche.
Also, Check out their instagram
Expendio Tradición
One of the favorites that I just stumbled upon by walking past. Looking for an afternoon snack and refreshing cocktail, landing at the perfect place for both. What I didn't know at the time was that this charming bar and restaurant is owned by the Chagoya family. They have been producing mezcal for more than 140 years! Some nights, they also have live music.
Food Recommendations:
Selección de hongos - Fresh Mushrooms with goat cheese and tomatoes
Botana Tradición - great for sharing, like a tester plate (pictured below)
Guacamole con chapulines Oaxaqueños
If you don't know what 'Chapulines' are read 15 Things to Know Before Traveling to Oaxaca
Los Danzantes
Hidden in plain sight on the main street,
Los Danzantes is one of my favorite places for its ambiance and amazing food. It’s a sit-down restaurant with a tasting menu and a beautiful outdoor dining area featuring string lights and a reflecting pool. One of their best dishes is the mole coloradito served with fresh tortillas and refried beans.
This is also a great dinner recommendation, but call for a reservation just in case!
Last but not least: Dinner
Casa Oaxaca el Restaurante
Walking through the 18th-century colonial townhouse on your way to your table will give you a glimpse of what is to come and the beginning of why many people consider this one of the best restaurants in Oaxaca City. The wonderful atmosphere is just the start, sitting on the roof deck, sipping a Mezcaltini (yes, this is a thing), you can start to look over the menu curated by Head Chef Alejandro Ruiz, who has become a global ambassador for Oaxacan cuisine. The menu highlights the best traditional recipes made with specially selected locally-sourced products.
Highly recommend trying the chile de agua, tostada de insectos, and lechón.
TIP:
Make a reservation for a rooftop table on the second floor, especially if you’re celebrating any special occasions. From here, you have great views of the Santo Domingo Church
Pitiona
Having dinner on a roof deck overlooking the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán is undoubtedly surreal. As well as, the service and the food being exceptional. Each dish they prepare is authentic to Oaxaca with an elevated presentation.
Call to reserve roof seating.
El Destilado
Known for its innovative take on Oaxacan cuisine, El Destilado offers a three-course meal or a full tasting menu, which is highly recommended for food lovers. Chef Jorge León, a protégé of Alejandro Ruiz, crafts dishes using fresh, local ingredients.
La Cocina de Humo
If you want a truly immersive Oaxacan experience, this is the place. Everything is cooked over an open flame, and you can enjoy traditional Oaxacan food in an intimate setting. Their mole verde is exceptional.
Crudo
This is a one-of-a-kind culinary experience not to miss while visiting Oaxaca. This eight-course meal was a presentation of edible art. With an intimate counter and creative omakase that takes Japanese inspiration using Oaxacan local ingredients and flavors. This is a favorite restaurant for those seeking a dining experience in Oaxaca.
Crudo has recently been added to the Michelin Guide
Importantly, you will need a reservation.
Pasillo de Humo
Located on Ruta Independencia, this sit-down restaurant is known for its mole amarillo and fresh tlayudas. You can pair your meal with an agua de maíz, a refreshing drink made from corn.
Dessert & Nightlife
No visit to Oaxaca is complete without ice cream from El Nieve Oaxaqueño, where you can try different flavors like squash blossoms or spicy tomato sauce.
For the best bars, check out Mezcaloteca for an educational mezcal tasting or Selva Oaxaca for craft cocktails.
Final Thoughts
If it’s your first time in Oaxaca, a food tour is highly recommended to experience the variety of traditional Oaxacan dishes. Whether you explore street stalls or sit-down restaurants, Oaxaca offers some of the best food in North America. Next time, I’d love to visit the small town of Santa María del Marquesado to try more regional specialties!
Somewhere,
Rach